Assuming you let it cool and then removed the battery, Check the voltage across the terminals if it is 12.6, it is worthy of testing further. If it is a sealed battery with no access to the cells, load testing is about all you can do At an autoparts store/battery store. If it has caps, or two mult cell caps, it can be checked. easily with a hygrometer. Battery specific gravity tester. Even a cheap floating ball tester for batteries will be fine. all the cells should be floating the same number of balls. All cells should have the same clarity of electrolyte. If they differ, it is not worthy of putting additional effort into. If the voltage is down below 12.4 I would just replace it before spending any more effort. With a new (or known good) battery in the tractor, the charging voltage, at 1/2 throttle, should be between 13.9 and 14.2 if the good battery is pretty well charged. And not over 14.6 if fully charged. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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