I find that there is a certain point whereas they get beat up too much, just replace them. I do sharpen, but also replace when I see they need it. I just cut a field with a new set on, bunch of work done to the mower and it cuts very nicely, also, no vibration because they are balanced. Over time, with sharpening, they will get of balance and you may see the deck with a slight wobble or vibration or worse. New blades and just raise up over questionable areas, no need to cut close, you can do that on a subsequent pass, after you see what's there. I know all the areas I cut, but unknown areas will get cut high on the first round and or inspected first.
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Today's Featured Article - Oliver 550 Purchaser Checklist - by Greg Sheppard. Pound for pound the 550 is better than anything I've seen. It has great power for its size and can really hunker down and lug. Classified as a 3-bottom plow depending on soil conditions. I personally don't think it can be beat for a utility tractor in the 40 HP range. They are extremely thrifty on fuel, at least my DSL is. Most drive train parts are fairly easy to get. Sheet metal is probably the hardest thing to
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