Wow just like deja view all over again. Had similar problem with my #40 ejector this week. Changed all the pressure hoses and oil and filter. Started it up and all it would do is move the pan a bit with not enough pressure to open the latch cylinder. See the JD forum "#40 Ejector Mystery". So with the kind help of Roger and Mike decided relief pressure too low. I had bled the air from both the latch cylinder hose and the pan cylinder hose a couple times and still nothing. So figured Roger's thought of hose debris in the relief valve. Took off electric control and dial from relief valve with a 1 1/8" wrench loosened the valve and heard air escaping and then oil. Thought, what the heck, and tried it. Noticed the pan movement had more force. Kept tripping the valve and after 20 or so cycles the pan released and threw normally. Also with the dial off, the relief valve can be rotated about 900 degrees instead of 345 degrees when on the baler. When tripping the valve I rotated the valve the full range. Seems to work normally now but I haven't tried it in the field. I pulled the old 336 and 30 ejector out and used it. Banged out 500 bales without a miss. Go figure. And yes Mike there is an orifice in the valve body to cushion the pan when it returns home but it is before the pan cylinder hose, not in the hose. Hope this helps some and good luck......Ron
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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