I have replaced the boards in 2 manure spreaders, one just 2 years ago. I used 5/4” treated lumber which I air dried for several months first as the stuff is very wet from the retailer. I also try to select the straightest boards with few knots, to avoid cupping or twisting. I want the boards to fit fairly tight but they do shrink more with time. No bigge because I don’t want the bottom to hold water either, although I don’t let them sit out. You need to pay special attention to the exact length and bevel both ends so the web slides over them without catching. You will need to drill up thru the old frame holes. The new boards will probably not be as wide as the old boards so not all old holes line up. Clean off the rust, repair and repaint the frame while the boards are off. That will double the time. On my newer NI spreader it has a stupid upside down U shaped box axle that collects dirt and rusts out. I cleaned that up and covered it with sheet metal.
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Today's Featured Article - Harvestin Hay: The Early Years (Part 2) - by Pat Browning. The summer of 1950 was the start of a new era in farming for our family. I was thirteen, and Kathy (my oldest sister) was seven. At this age, I believed tractor farming was the only way, hot stuff -- and given a chance I probably would have used the tractor, Dad's first, a 1936 Model "A" John Deere, to go bring in the cows! And I think Dad was ready for some automation too. And so it was that we acquired a good, used J. I. Case, wire tie hay baler. In addition to a person to drive th
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