I have replaced the boards in 2 manure spreaders, one just 2 years ago. I used 5/4” treated lumber which I air dried for several months first as the stuff is very wet from the retailer. I also try to select the straightest boards with few knots, to avoid cupping or twisting. I want the boards to fit fairly tight but they do shrink more with time. No bigge because I don’t want the bottom to hold water either, although I don’t let them sit out. You need to pay special attention to the exact length and bevel both ends so the web slides over them without catching. You will need to drill up thru the old frame holes. The new boards will probably not be as wide as the old boards so not all old holes line up. Clean off the rust, repair and repaint the frame while the boards are off. That will double the time. On my newer NI spreader it has a stupid upside down U shaped box axle that collects dirt and rusts out. I cleaned that up and covered it with sheet metal.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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