What are you wanting to know. The engine is about as good as it gets. They when in good condition start good in cold weather and run very smooth like most 6 cylinders do. If it has the RD pump they claim there are no parts for them if you need them. I can't say, mine with the RD pump is still going. The shifting mechanism is probably the weakest link on them. If they shift good and are tight should be fine. Fast shifting and slam shifting will be the problem they had over the years. The going through low range to get to reverse was the issue since they used a cam that tended to flip the linkage inside to get reverse. If you have to work the lever some to get reverse it probably needs a bushing for the pivot and the wear fixed on the fork and pivot slot. Or you can convert to a 56 series shifter and then can adjust the reverse linkage separate from the other. Don't know about the front end working loose never owned a standard only a row crop model.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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