> Before trying to adjust the carb, locate the drain plug in the bottom of the carn bowl. > Have a clean glass ready, engine off, fuel valve open, remove the plug and catch the flow. > It should have a full flow, slow some as the bowl empties down, but continue to flow a > steady stream. If it slows to a drip or stops, there is a fuel restriction, not enough fuel > getting into the bowl.
Well, I checked this at lunch break. No crud came out of the bowl, but the stream fizzled to drops. The seller had replaced the fuel line, and I foolishly figured nobody would do that without tending to the sediment bowl and petcock. MY MISTAKE! I removed the line and it's clear, but the sediment bowl had no screen above it, and a little crud in the bottom. When I put it back together it isn't flowing at all.
So tomorrow (when I'm off) I'll borrow a sediment bowl from a 2n I've got waiting for other work (it was new a few years ago). If that shows me a decent flow to the carb then maybe that was the fuel-starving culprit. If not, hopefully at least I'll be able to start it and try the propane test for vacuum leaks.
By the way, the post about incorrect jets was on the YT board this April in a thread about 8n surging. I can't see the whole thread, but this part caught my eye: "suggest measure the economizer jet. Spec for the stock, Marvel Schebler carb is .046. The jet in my aftermarket, silver carb was .065. The bigger hole in the jet lets engine pull to much air from the float chamber, giving your symptoms."
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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