Lots of good advise and methods given, the main thing you need to do is use a water base cleaner to soften/remove the oxidation.
Solvent does not work well on dirt, mud, oxidation, rust etc.
Water does not do much on grease, oil, tar etc.
But just like washing your hands, warm up the water add a little soap and it does wonders.
My method uses an old 3 gallon pot on a hotplate outside the shop.
A gallon or so of water is usually enough to cover everything, to this I would add some of the old school rad flush.
Problem is the rad flush they make now is not like the old stuff that I finally ran out of it so I looked into what the active ingredient was in it.
Oxalic acid was the secret ingredient so I searched for a product that contains it.
Barkeepers friend contains oxalic acid and is easy to find so to the gallon of water I dump in a half a can of the stuff.
Let it come to a boil then check it every half hour or so until it looks good.
I have never destroyed any steel, aluminum, pot metal or brass though if left long enough I suppose anything is possible.
Once it looks good I remove it and put it into a solution of water and baking soda to neutralize any remaining acid then finally flush with clean water.
I once tried to dismantle a nasty looking old Marvel Schebler that had sat outside for 30 plus years.
After snapping the heads off a few screws I decided to boil it out for a while.
The rest of the screws came right out and the broken off remains of the damaged screws I was able to unscrew with my fingers.
Upload one or more videos to your post. Photo and video filesizes should be less than 8MB. Formats allowed are gif, jpg, png, ogg, mp4, mov, and avi. Be sure to use filenames without spaces or special characters, and filetypes of 3 digits lower case.
We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]
Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
... [Read Article]
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy
TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.