This item as was noted is a safety retrofit and will not show up in the original parts diagram. That part is unlikely to be your problem. It is a simple circuit breaker. It is a normally closed device which I believe in normal operation (just setting there) will show 12 volts to the tractor frame on both sides or zero ohms if you remove the wires and test it. Trouble shooting the solenoid on a 24 volt system is a little different process. The first thing to do is to make absolutely sure the tractor is in park. Checking the solenoid starting circuit with reference to the tractor frame will give you confusing results. I would thourly check the neutral safety switch, remove the connector and check for zero ohms. I would also remove the solenoid from the starter, dissemble it and inspect the contacts. If it is old or has been run with low batteries I might replace it. I know it costs around a $100.00 but if it welds itself internally when starting you may ruin the starter before you can disconnect the batteries. With all that said poor starting in a 24 volt system is usually batteries and/or connections. Take forum advice from individuals who understand the system, it is different. Tx Jim is a good source.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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