That's got to be the dumbest advice ever put in a manual. The carb feeds 4 cylinders, not 1. And no one is going to run alongside a tractor while under a load and adjust the carburetor. Not gonna happen. That only works with a dyno which most people don't have.
There is two ways to set up your carburetor with your ears. Get the engine to operating temperature first.
For power - adjust the load needle until it runs smooth. Ease the needle out until it starts stumbling. Ease it back in until it just smothes out and stop. This is considered a rich working setting.
For a lean puttering around - adjust the load needle until it smoothes out. Ease the needle in until it just starts to stumble. Ease it back out until it just smoothes out and stop.
Yes you will probably need to readjust the idle screw afterwards. Listen carefully and turn the screws slowly and you will be fine.
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Today's Featured Article - Oliver 550 Purchaser Checklist - by Greg Sheppard. Pound for pound the 550 is better than anything I've seen. It has great power for its size and can really hunker down and lug. Classified as a 3-bottom plow depending on soil conditions. I personally don't think it can be beat for a utility tractor in the 40 HP range. They are extremely thrifty on fuel, at least my DSL is. Most drive train parts are fairly easy to get. Sheet metal is probably the hardest thing to
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