Thanks guys. Have a plan now. I'm putting a set of gauges on it and Bob previously advised me about the british thread. I still wanted to keep the idiot lights so I was looking for a tee for the oil sender to keep it and add an oil line. Thought it was a metric thread and after a month on order it finally showed up by slow boat. Turns out it isn't a metric thread after taking out the sender and the fittings were reversed on the tee. So I guess I will tap that out as well for NPT and clean up the sender thread with a die. The sender thread is a little boogered up and looks like an original blue but I wonder if it is really NPT.
For the water I can't tee off the block where the sender is so that left me with 2 choices. That drain valve in the block or one that goes into the radiator hose so I ordered a G thread adapter.
Because of that drain handle, head, and starter, I was working at an angle with a crescent wrench and it broke off flush with the block. There is a hole there so I can't leave it. The largest left hand bit I had was a 1/4" and found that the aluminum drills real easy but it didn't extract. The largest easy out I could find was also a 1/4". Looks like it is corroded in so I will drill it out. When I looked at the block I got to thinking about an old cast iron stove and thought it might be too hard to tap or else so brittle that breaks up.
Sorry but I can't drive a tractor without knowing what the temp, oil pressure, and voltage are because who knows if the senders for the idiot lights really work or what setting they have. Someone said that the temp probe needs flowing water to work so if that is how it turns out then I will get one for the upper hose and put a NPT drain back in the block.
Thanks. Long post but I know that someone will ask something. Oreillys carries the pipe taps.
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