If you look at the rim/wheel mostly on car,truck,and implement ones. Ther will be a longer distance to the drop for the bead you don't want to try getting it off that side. Use the closer side. It usually is the back side with the longer side to the drop. I don't like dish soap for mounting it can be a bit corrosive to the steel. The tire mounting Murphy soap is not and works very well. It will also work to seat beads on tubeless tires by just putting it in around the bead. I then save all I can as the tire inflates, it squeezes out around the bead. Works just as good as those bead blasters with less noise. I've used it on tires from rear tractors to car tires. Just use it right out of the container.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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