If it was sheded over the winter, the only thing I can think of is Ice in the final drives causing a broken part. If the wheels are less than a quarter bubble different it could be tire out of round causing the issue. If you put the level vertically against the wheel casting on both wheels they should be very close to the same, maybe just detectably closer on the top of the level. A failed inner ball bearing at the bull gear with balls out of place, and the axle crooked (down on the inner end) and the pinion that drives it in a bind. It is possible. I don't know the chances of that on a 666. Pete 23, or D Slater are more likely to know. A broken axle would be very unlikely, as it would turn and not slide. The brake being rusted stuck is most likely. As stated by others if the wheels are straight, loosen the bolts holding the round brake housing onto the frame, (maybe three turns each) and whack (modestly) the housing to get it to separate from the tractor frame casting. Were the brake pedals locked down for the winter? (don't do that, block the tractor in place). Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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