I've been using that setup for 8+ years, I won't go back. I'm using an old Ford, just drop the position control all the way down so the box blade is dragging on the ground. Use the hydraulic top link to adjust the cutting angle, make small adjustments as needed. I do gravel driveways that are badly neglected until they call me, they end up smooth without chatter ridges or gouges. On my box blade I leave the rakers pointing down in their raised position which is just above the blade, if I want to use them I just tilt the box blade up on it's nose to break up hard pack and roll it back level on the fly.
Get a hydraulic top link (cat 1) that is designed for the job, it has a locking system that won't drain down and change length. It is also handy with the brush hog if I want to shred some tall stuff I lift the tail of the hog and back in.
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Today's Featured Article - Oliver 550 Purchaser Checklist - by Greg Sheppard. Pound for pound the 550 is better than anything I've seen. It has great power for its size and can really hunker down and lug. Classified as a 3-bottom plow depending on soil conditions. I personally don't think it can be beat for a utility tractor in the 40 HP range. They are extremely thrifty on fuel, at least my DSL is. Most drive train parts are fairly easy to get. Sheet metal is probably the hardest thing to
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