The problem you described has the exact symptoms of a failing piston seal in the cylinder on the drill. Especially since you say it does the same thing on both sets of remotes. If you took the drill off of this tractor and hooked it to your 1100 and it works fine your point is proven. But say for instance you unhooked the drill from the 1100 or just used it on you 1100 a month ago this does not verify that the drill cylinder is working properly. Say AS AN EXAMPLE the auto canceling release pressure for the remote on the 1105 requires 500 psi more than the 1100 and the seal ring on the drill cylinder piston was worn and near failure. You connect the drill cylinder and hit the lever to raise it. Due to the fact that the 1105 applied 500 psi more to the cylinder when it hit the end of the stroke your weak piston seal has now failed. This all comes under the old saying ..trust but verify.. hope you understand what I am saying. Just trying to save you from trying to fix a problem with the tractor that does not exist. I am not an expert on a 1105 but I think the 3 position lever Bill VA has mentioned only applies to operation of the 3 point hitch. If someone knows otherwise I have learned something today.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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