Many options noted below. I will simplify some here. The drainage is critical I prefer to keep water out from under the drive. If the underlying soil is near saturation the drive will fail as traffic mushes the material sideways and into lumps. So analysis of the subgrade material is first. Providing down hill drainage at least on one side is needed unless the subgrade is always solid and near dry. Possible corrugated plastic tile if an open ditch is wrong. Second: large to small meaning from 2 to 3/4 inch stone (preferably crushed not river worn) in three layers all driven into compaction, or rolled. Third a cap layer of 3/4 to fine (what I call from my history) ABC roadbase. This is applied and contoured in a crown of at least 2 inches in the center higher than the edges, or all slanted to the ditch side if a ditch or drain is used. The use of Mill slag is good, as it can smash and compress as driven on, making a more water resistant top layer, but needs to be replaced every 3 or 4 years until stable. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - An AC Model M Crawler - by Anthony West. Neil Atkins is a man in his late thirties, a mild and patient character who talks fondly of his farming heritage. He farms around a hundred and fifty acres of arable land, in a village called Southam, located just outside Leamington Spa in Warwickshire. The soil is a rich dark brown and is well looked after. unlike some areas in the midlands it is also fairly flat, broken only by hedgerows and the occasional valley and brook. A copse of wildbreaking silver birch and oak trees surround the top si
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