If the engine has not set very long, you MIGHT get lucky trying this method. Remove the rack screw and all shims from rack end. Loosen ALL SIX injector line nuts at injectors, and tap the lines to MAKE SURE they are not stuck in the injector due to the Ermeto line ends used as they will be tight. Thread a metric bolt in the rack end to be used as a handle, if I recall it's M6 X 1.0 metric thread. Now, while cranking engine over, pull/push the rack bolt and see if it will move at all BY HAND! If it does begin to move, you are lucky. Keep working with it while cranking engine, it won't start with all the lines loose so don't worry about engine running away. If all six plungers work free, then the throttle SHOULD move rack in/out when all is right. If you do get to that point, replace the rack end screw, leaving off ONE thick shim. Replace the cap, tighten all six injector lines and start engine. If the rack DOES NOT free up pump will need removed for further inspection that can't be done on engine.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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