The steel shell transfers heat to the head, serves as a heat sink for the center electrode.
The shorter the porcelain and center electrode, the closer to the heat sink, the better the heat transfer, so the plug runs cooler.
The longer the porcelain and center, the further away from the heat sink, the hotter it runs.
It's a close balancing act, too cold it carbons up, too hot it can turn into a glowing ember. A glowing ember is hot enough to ignite the fuel during the compression stroke, before the plug fires. Not good!!!
That quickly intensifies the cylinder temperature to the point the top of the piston melts!
Now, on a low compression tractor engine that is not likely to happen unless several factors come together, like extreme full throttle engine load, overheating, poor low octane fuel, lean mixture, over advanced timing, carbon build up in the cylinder, and way too hot plugs.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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