I sure would like to know what you was mowing to of never broken a stick. I'm guessing nothing that mowed very tuff such as brome grass, or alfalfa. Certainly not prairie hay with wire grass in it, or nothing like that. Wire grass will test out a mower in brand new shape. Especially on a dry year. If it freezes the sickle from motion, something is going to break. If you've ever mowed any of it, you'll know what I'm talking about.
It's moreso on the left hand turn that mounted mowers don't mow right. The bar kind of goes sideways into the grass as you turn the circular motion. The right hand turn not so much if you make sharp 90 degree turns. If not making sharp right turns, the bar won't cut it's full width is what happens. A good style pull type, pretty much eliminates these affects.
I'm not old enough to of gotten in on using the horse drawn. But have seen enough of them to know the bar is in front of the wheel. That would kind of qualify you as running a side mount as well, I would think. I have ran mowers as new as a 456 new holland pull type. I'm guessing that is a little newer and improved than an oliver pull type. Pull types were improved a little as time went along, same as it was for the mounted.
I likewise have put some hay down in my day. Still put down about 125 big rounds a year. All by sickle mower.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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