Air still trapped somewhere is the most common. A good test, pump up the brakes until there is good pedal, take the cap off the master cylinder, look in when the pedal is released. a small, short fountain of fluid is normal, but if fluid keeps returning to the master cylinder, there is still air somewhere. I have reverse blead them, use a new or thoroughly cleaned pump type oil can, connect it to an open bleeder screw, and pump fluid back toward the master cylinder.
Out of adjustment shoes. Tighten the adjuster until the wheel is locked, then back off until the wheel turns, and the shoes still just drag. If new shoes were installed, they may not fit the drums exactly. They can be arc ground or will have to fit themselves with use.
Wrong components. Trucks use a variety of brake options. The master cylinder, wheel cylinders, and booster must all be the correct bore. They may look the same from the outside but be different internally. The original and new booster will have a tag, the numbers must match for it to work.
I remember years ago fighting one of those for several days. Ended up being a defective rebuilt booster.
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Today's Featured Article - Earthmaster Project Progress Just a little update on my Earthmaster......it's back from the dead! I pulled the head, and soaked the stuck valves with mystery oil overnight, re-installed the head, and bingo, the compression returned. But alas, my carb foiled me again, it would fire a second then flood out. After numerous dead ends for a replacement carb, I went to work fixing mine.I soldered new floats on the float arm, they came from an old motorcycle carb, replaced the packing on the throttle shaft with o-rings, cut new ga
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