You may know what Dean is referring to but just in case. Hold a large hammer such as a 5lbs sledge or large piece of heavy steel against one side of the pitman arm where it slides over the shaft. By the others posters recommendation of this method it usually applies to tapers or tapered splines. Then hit the opposite side with a 2 lbs hammer with about all the swing you can muster. If you have a bad aim it is a good idea to screw the nut on to protect the shaft threads from erring hammer strikes. The end of a removable swinging drawbar is a great stationary anvil to hold up against it for a ..counter weight.. The idea is that with each hammer strike you are momentarily slightly deforming the inside diameter of the pitman arm and that causes it the work itself free.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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