I don't have a borescope. The exhaust stack has a good cap on it, so I don't think it got any water down the exh system. It hasn't run for 5 years, I think it's just got some rusty spots on the cyl.
Since I can get a head gasket real easy, I might just pop the head off and clean the cyl walls and tap on the pistons with a wood handle mallet. Then heat and rock the engine back and forth. Worst case is a broken ring, and then I have to get a rebuild kit.
From what I see, the trans under engine prevents removal of the oil pain in-frame. Would need to remove the engine to get the rods out the top. Hoping to avoid that. If it goes that far, I'll get new pistons, jugs, rings, and rod bearings and just refresh the whole thing. New valve grind too.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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