Reading about your problem several things come to mind;
-If as you say the tractor has been converted to 12 volt and it has a ballast resistor it is possible you are getting spark while cranking but due to either a wiring issue or a failed ballast resistor you will have no spark once you release the start button.
-Has anything else been checked? compression, valve adjustment etc.
-You say you have a good spark, was that checked on one cylinder or all cylinders?
-Could firing order be mixed up?
-Moisture under distributor cap?
-One or more old wires shorting out?
-Badly restricted air filter?
-Regarding your carburetor, if you are adamant the carb is causing the problem then remove the air intake hose from the carb and squirt a teaspoon of gas directly into it and try starting, if it catches and runs good for a few seconds then you have confirmed you have a fuel problem. If you are getting a good constant flow when the drain plug is removed then it is time for a proper carb dismantle and cleaning.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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