I like the idea of keeping the original kerosene parts on the tractor. Makes it a little different than the other 400,000 Hs that you see. I dont think you are trying to make a living farming with the tractor so have some fun. I have a 40 H and a 39 F14 that still have all of the Kerosene parts intact. I have ran the F14 that way but the H I have just used gasoline in the main tank. My understanding was that on the H the flattop original piston were all the same and the larger combustion chamber in the heads made the compression difference for the three different fuels. Head, manifold, carburetor (might just be the jetting), manifold heat shield and the required starting fuel tank and plumbing were what made the tractor a kerosene tractor. I would think that if you had those parts that you could run the 3 7/16 flat top pistons with no issues. Good luck with your parts search. Mike
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Today's Featured Article - Oliver 550 Purchaser Checklist - by Greg Sheppard. Pound for pound the 550 is better than anything I've seen. It has great power for its size and can really hunker down and lug. Classified as a 3-bottom plow depending on soil conditions. I personally don't think it can be beat for a utility tractor in the 40 HP range. They are extremely thrifty on fuel, at least my DSL is. Most drive train parts are fairly easy to get. Sheet metal is probably the hardest thing to
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