It's likely you will tear up the machined hole in the end of the crank if you try to force it to turn. Try taking the coupler chain off the driveshaft, remove the bolts holding the carrier bearing at the back of the bellhousing, and IF there is enough clearance between the coupler sprockets, pry the driveshaft straight back a bit, to see if it will come out of the pilot bushing or it will pull the bushing out of the crank. Mine was so boogered up I had to machine a new bronze bushing that would fit the chewed up hole in the crank. You might have to loosen the bellhousing and jack it up to get the clearance between the sprockets. If you have to do that, loosen the front engine mount bolt too, to allow tilting the engine up in the back. If, when you take the chain off the driveshaft, the sprockets are not aligned, that's part of your problem. You will have to shim the front engine mount bolt up or down to align the shafts. steve
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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