I run 30 wt detergent oil in all my old tractors. I do buy small engine 30 wt. oil. It still has the zinc in it that flat tappet cams like. I have been told that most automobile oils don't have zinc in them because it causes problems with the catylist in catylitic convertors.
Now is you are thinking of using non-detergent 30 wt. that is a different story. Stay away from non-detergent oil unless you are afraid that your old engine has lots of sludge in it that you would prefer for it to stay right where it is inside the engine. The detergent holds sludge in the oil until it can be removed by the oil filter. Non detergent oil lets sludge collect anywhere in the engine that the oil is not moving briskly.
If you can't find 30wt anywhere, I suggest you use 10w40 or some thicker viscosity oil in you vintage International. I don't think Wal-Mart has 30 wt. anymore. I didn't see any at AutoZone last time I was there either. But then I was looking for 20w50.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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