The biggest reason is while it is apart it is easier than splitting again and they usually fail at the least wanted time for it so by changing them out while there it pretty much solves that problem. By just changing the clutch disc you may have it only contacting at the edges by the curve from the wear of the old clutch. Also with a wear lip at the inner or outer surfaces of the old clutch assembly it can allow your old clutch to slip till it wears in on that lip. So the purpose of having the flywheel turned for a new surface. IF you have a surface grinder or lathe big enough to do that you could do it your self. You are not going to hold a disc grinder for it though. A&I has complete clutch kits cheap enough I just change them when I'm in there. 100 plus horse tractors and articulated tractors are not something I want to have to put them in during planting or combining. I would trade you costs of some of the clutches I've done if a couple hundred is high.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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