I worked on trucks and trailers for forty years-done countless wheel seals. CR seals, hands down are the best. In the 70's we used Stemco with the wear rings on the axle. We even had a fleet that needed seals constantly-until we switched to CR. But there should be no preload on a wheel bearing; about .003 is the spec. I was taught how to 'feel' end play, by setting on my heels and bouncing the wheel assembly with my knees. You will hear a little clunk noise, each time you bounce the wheel, if you do it right. If it had 2 nuts the inner would be loose, with more end play, and when you tightened the outer nut, you would get your'.003'. Later axles came with single nuts with a built-in lock that the socket released when you put it over the nut. This nut had a specific torque, that I do not recall, but I think it is on the face of the nut. I think there are some variations of nut, but we had very few to replace in my last years, due to better design, I guess. We also were taught to set up the dial indicator with the magnetic base, but I could check myself with the 'feel' method and be right on. Another thing that is very important, is CORRECT seal installation-using the correct seal driver, and making sure the seal is bottomed correctly and not mashed in. Mark.
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Today's Featured Article - Tractor Hydraulics - The Basics - by Curtis Von Fange. Hydraulics was one of the greatest inventions for helping man compound the work he can do. It’s amazing how a little floor jack can lift tons and tons of weight with just the flick of a handle. What’s even more amazing is that all the principals of hydraulic theory can be wrapped up in such a small package. This same package applies to any hydraulic system from the largest bulldozer to the oldest and smallest tractor. This short series will take a look at the basic layout of a simple hydraul
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