I must be one of those ..older guys.. that have replaced rope seals with the engine in the unit, cars and trucks mostly. They are tricky, it is kind of like the birthing process of fitting something big through a small hole. If you are doing a ..restoration.. to me that means you would be splitting the tractor anyway to restore the clutch to original specs. Most likely you are doing a ..rehabilitation.. where if something works okay it is not touched. Anyway to split it safely you need a splitting stand or at least a facsimile of one. Do a web search for one. On an M you can get by with a couple of 6 channel iron that are long enough to go from the side frame rail rails to the floor. Bolt them on each side as far back as possible. Then put your ..2 TON plus GOOD floor jack that does NOT LEAK down.. under the clutch housing so you can roll the back half back. This is actually the marginally safe method. The best way is to have the front part of the stand that bolts below the engine equipped with heavy casters. Then to also have the ability to adjust the height of each side with a jack or threaded adjustment. Then a bottle type jack is used under the clutch housing and in this configuration the engine rolls forward. If you are used to automotive stuff BE CAREFUL comparatively the parts of this machine are heavy! Not sure if you are familiar with it but I am adding a link to the manufacturers online parts diagrams. To see the rough configuration of the rear crank seal go to Engine and subsection 014. Best of luck!
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Today's Featured Article - Oliver 550 Purchaser Checklist - by Greg Sheppard. Pound for pound the 550 is better than anything I've seen. It has great power for its size and can really hunker down and lug. Classified as a 3-bottom plow depending on soil conditions. I personally don't think it can be beat for a utility tractor in the 40 HP range. They are extremely thrifty on fuel, at least my DSL is. Most drive train parts are fairly easy to get. Sheet metal is probably the hardest thing to
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