We sell starters all the time to people who haven't checked to see whether their engine can possibly turn over or if it is full of gas. All you have to do is put a wrench on the nut holding the pulley or clutch on and giving it a tug. The bad thing is our policy is we don't return electrical parts. Because we don't know if the customer let the smoke out of the new starter too.
To wade in on the water in engine thread/(rabbit trail): We leave mowers outside all the time with no problems. I worked on one today that we put outside in June 2000 because the customer didn't want to fix it and it had no water problems attributed to being left in the weather. (It had the wrong carb. needle in it.) Its stuff that is left under a tarp that fairs far worse. The tarp holds moisture and speeds up corrosion, quickly causing mechanical and electrical problems. Stuff left in open air can dry out sometimes. (P.S. I am in NC. snow is not a problem here.)
But several years ago I worked on a rear-engine rider that the Tecumseh engine was full of water. Brim full! You couldn't see anything on the dipstick and it only took 3-4 oz for oil to overflow the dipstick tube. But you know, I drained it, let it drip overnight, and put in fresh oil, cleaned the carburetor and it started right up! I did warn the customer that I didn't know how long it would last after that.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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