I doubt the Loctite or added set screw will be very effective for this repair. Is the key way in the shaft full length or is it a woodruff/half moon key. If full length you could just get a piece of key stock and cut a full length key. Then the unworn section of the key way would carry the load. The weld and broach approach suggested would probably be cost prohibitive but I may be wrong. There may be a possibility that the hub could be re-broached at 180 degree from the original key way. If the new sprocket is crazy expensive from the manufacturer there are universal sprockets that may be less expensive but they require a welder. A hub is chosen to fit the shaft and then a proper tooth number and chain size is selected. Then the two are welded together. However, factory centering and hub side spacing has to be considered to utilize these, see link for an example I have not personally used this company. Many implement and farm stores carry these. Hope the price you paid for you baler online sight unseen reflected the fact that the machine required some repairs. This is a factor that should always be considered on these types of bids.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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