It requires quite a few btu's from your firewood to boil out the moisture/water. That water goes up your chimney as steam, then condenses on the cooler walls of your flue pipe. Taking with it the tar and creosote and other particulates from the burning process. If high moisture wood is all you have, you need to give it more air/draft at the firebox to have higher firebox temperatures and also higher flu temps, it boils off the water quicker and does not condense on the flu pipe walls(as much. Bringing cold/frozen high moisture wood in and adding it to the fire really cools things off, not what you want. keeping warm with wood heat...gobble
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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