Look in the pump opening where the shaft goes and see if there is a dot in one end of the slot the shaft engages, then look at the drive end of the shaft and see if it has a dot. Line the two dots up and put it together. Be sure you turn the pump in the right rotation if you have to turn it to match the shaft. lube the shaft seals with some oil and work them in carefully, especially the first one which has the open side lips going into the pump bore first. They make tools to hold the seals closed when installing the pump over them. A small screwdriver and a dull 90 degree pick, are tools I have used to get the lips started in without rolling the seal inside out as the inner one starts into the pump bore. I don't call it a wrinkling issue with the seals, the inner one can turn inside out and let fuel into the engine if the lip of that inner seal catches and rolls the seal over. Others will likely have their own tricks to do this they will pass on..
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Today's Featured Article - Oliver 550 Purchaser Checklist - by Greg Sheppard. Pound for pound the 550 is better than anything I've seen. It has great power for its size and can really hunker down and lug. Classified as a 3-bottom plow depending on soil conditions. I personally don't think it can be beat for a utility tractor in the 40 HP range. They are extremely thrifty on fuel, at least my DSL is. Most drive train parts are fairly easy to get. Sheet metal is probably the hardest thing to
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