A 55 gallon steel barrel converted to a 3 point counterweight works great. When fabricating prior to filling with concrete, run the 'drawbar' for the lower links through the front third of the barrel, not the center. This allows for the tractor's drawbar to remain in the correct fore and aft position for proper PTO work. A modest additional benefit is that your weight is slightly farther away from the tractor for more effective counterweight. Measure the distance from the lower link to the ground when in the lowest position and cut the holes in the steel barrel accordingly. Mine was used on two different tractors with different lower link pins to ground measurements. I ended up modifying my barrels' lower links as well as constructing a wooden platform for the counterweight barrel storage.In the fabrication I added some arms to allow for mounting of more suitcase weights, if and when needed. Also add a hitch out the back of the barrel for pulling wagons, etc. without removing the barrel from the 3 point hitch. Leave the concrete in the barrel down several inches from the top so that chains, hitch pins, etc. have a place to ride.
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Today's Featured Article - An Old-Time Tractor Demonstration - by Kim Pratt. Sam was born in rural Kansas in 1926. His dad was a hard-working farmer and the children worked hard everyday to help ends meet. In the rural area he grew up in, the highlight of the week was Saturday when many people took a break from their work to go to town. It was on one such Saturday in the early 1940's when Sam was 16 years old that he ended up in Dennison, Kansas to watch a demonstration of a new tractor being put on by a local dealer. It was an Allis-Chalmers tractor dealership,
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