Lenard Call me if you like. 989 413 5684 Those adjust with either a 7/16or a9/16 wrench on the side of the slack adjuster not the threads on the rod. IT has a ring you push in to turn and then pops back out to lock the screw from turning. Same on all 6 wheels If it happens to have wedge locks they are a whole different animal and are usually rusted up so you have to heat them with a torch to get them loose then do it each time you want to adjust brakes if it is not done on a regular basis and well lubricated each time they are worked on. Been 30 years since I worked on wedge lock brakes. Once loosened up they adjust reasonably well. The pedal valves are known to stick on trucks if not used on a regular basis also. Right under the pedal there. Squirt your favoite juice in ther and work on it. Some times you can get the pedal up off from the valve and work it loose that way. IF you canb get the little plunger deal out that is on top polish it up with some Emory cloth then lube well and check if it works freely.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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