For starters, yes, the bearing does ride on the clutch levers all the time. There is no return spring, and no bearing to lever clearance, so there is no pedal free play in that regard. There is an adjustment on the clutch cable but it's purpose is merely for pedal height from the floor.
The levers on the new clutch are a full inch lower than those on the old clutch. That does sound like a lot. Having replaced a number of clutches in TN series tractors I don't recall coming across one, whether new or reman that I couldn't make work by adjusting the cable.
I've learned over the years to take a measurement of the position of release levers from the tractor split joint and compare it with the measurement of release bearing to the split joint. In this case it would involve holding the pedal up with a bungee cord then pushing the bearing back by hand. If I don't think I can get enough adjustment on pedal linkage to bring the two measurements within 1/8 the two halves don't go together until I figure out why. I take it you have adjusted the cable and still have the problem?
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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