There is no gauze in there or should not be. The filter is inside the cover on the left side on the MCV. Once changed if there is no change get back to me. IT sounds like the valve is tuck. The cap screws in on the bottom of the MCv then you will need a pair of Needle nose pliers to pull it out the bottom. IF you can not get it out with a helper put a 5gallon pail under the hole start tractor be ready to shut it off as soon as it starts this will push the valve out then wrap some emory cloth around a stick you can put in the chuck of a drill and polish the hole some then try it. I always do a quick start to flush out whatever I can in the MCV from the polishing then put back together and see if it helps. Local dealer told me to do this once when the valve was sticking. Solved the problem on our 674. Have a pail handy for the filter change also. I don't bother spend time digging the o-ring out of the MCV for the filter since oil is draining all the while you fool around with that. IF they are leaking I do not otherwise though.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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