deene, my best guess from here would be to stay with the 8 flue liner.If it is a name brand stove you should be able to find some documentation online from the manufacturer for recommendations of flue size. We had to have that done several years ago after a major flue fire. Also I would consider where and how big of crack(s) are in the existing flue tile. They all will get hairline cracks at the top from temperature changes and I wouldn't worry about those too much, if the cracks a pretty good (like pieces are loose or nearly loose) and anywhere other than the top few inches, then I would think about doing something. The chimney construction also plays a part in that. Ours is way overbuilt with fire brick and stone and the outside faces stayed cool even though the stove got hot enough to bubble the ceramic glass in the doors! Paul
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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