Re: engine rebuild tips..

Posted by Dennis Benson on November 29, 2002 at 07:23:50 from (64.12.96.236):

In Reply to: engine rebuild tips.. posted by Andy on November 29, 2002 at 05:41:20:

One of the good lubricants to coat the new parts before assembly is a mixture of engine oil and any of the oil additives that will make the oil stick to the parts longer. There may be some especially furmulated for engines to be stored, especially if you might not get the engine back in right away. You would still want to prime the oil pump before starting the first time.

If you are having the camshaft reground, the lobes will be coated with a dark material from the cam grinder you can put oil over this, too. You can get camshafts reground at Delta Camshaft in Washington, they have a web site. They can even weld worn off lobes back on. I had a Continental F163 camshaft for my forklift reground and it was around $50.

The o rings can be lubricated with anything you suggested. There might be a recommendation on a slip of paper inserted with the sleeve set.

I've heard people say you can't put gasket sealer on blue Felpro gaskets, so I called Felpro and asked them for a recommendation, and they recommended High Tack. You just can't put sealer on the rubber gaskets. The person also told me the high tack, or any other you prefer to use is not for sealing the gaskets, but is only for holding the gaskets in place during assembly. I think the High Tack does provide some sealing, especially when you might not have good mating surfaces.

You can do a lot of resurfacing with a belt sander. If you really want to get serious you can buy a sanding belt with ceramic sanding grit. The surface grinders that use belts use ceramic grit, and somethign like a 48 inch belt is pretty standard. You will want to reverse the sanding belt's rotation from time to time because the ceramic chips off and gets dull, and reversing it puts the sharp edges out in front. Sears sells that size belt sander, and you can even change belts and use it for woodworking.

Also, if there are any bolts that screw directly into the water jacket you will want to put a thread sealer on them.

When you have the sleeves out you should get the block and head tumble cleaned in the abrasive media, that will remove everything, rust and paint right down to bare iron. Rust in the water jacket inhibits cooling. You will want to remove any soft plugs and oil plugs so the media can get everywhere, and so the media can be cleaned out afterward.

Make sure all threads are good and clean, including after cleaning in the machine shop, any sandblasting or cleaning can leave residue. Dirt in the bottom of the bolt holes will prevent the bolts from being tightened to proper torque specifications. And if you strip a bad thread when you are putting it back together it might make you say things you might not want others to hear. They you will have to take it apart and put in a heli coil. It is easier to put in a heli coil, or any kind of thread repair before you begin assembly.

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