Re: Just a tad confused

Posted by Jon Hagen on July 15, 2005 at 13:12:06 from (69.26.17.255):

In Reply to: Just a tad confused posted by Errin OH on July 15, 2005 at 08:16:20:

The early ones that used an ammeter had an external shunt as you suspect,later ones used a voltmeter.
With your internal shunt ammeter,connect the Bat terminal of the alternator and any accessory load(bat terminal of ign switch) to one side of the ammeter. hook battery voltage( taken from bat terminal of starter solenoid) to the other ammeter terminal.

With the alternator exciter wiring you can go three ways.
1 use an ignition switch that has seperate ign and acc terminals with the alt #1 exciter terminal connected to the acc terminal,this will break the connection between the alternator exciter terminal and the ignition coil to prevent run on.
2 use a diode to prevent power backflow from the alt exciter terminal to the common ign/exciter terminal on the switch.
3 replace the diode with an indicator light,this will work as a resistor to restrict backfeed to a level too low to power the ignition coil. this is my favorite method,as the light serves as a charge indicator and a replacement is avalible at any auto parts store or department.
Being the wiring is pre electronic ignition,it will have a resistance wire for the ignition primary . The cleanest and most reliable is to wire in a ceramic ignition resistor(1.5 ohm ?) to replace the in harness resistance wire.
Don't forget that the alternator sense wire #2,needs to be connected to full battery voltage so the regulator can sense system voltage and adjust the alternator to maintain normal voltage level at the battery. In most cases,putting a ring terminal on the #2 sense wire and connecting it to the BAT stud on the alternator rear works best.

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