I"ve never had any problems using brass nuts and have done it many times over the years. As another post said the stainless ones do have a tendency to sieze after awhile. As for using a nickle based never sieze, it"s a good idea, and it will help the nut will come off easily for awhile regardless of what material it"s made of. Still, regardless of the claims that it handles the high heat, in the long run it"s all pretty much worthless. McMaster Carr should have them but if you can"t find the brass nuts then go with a grade 5 plain or coated steel. When it comes time to take them off the steel nut will be alot softer, therefore easier to split, than the stainless one will. In fact when removing a nut on an exhaust system the best way to get it off, with little effort, is to split or at least spread it with a sharp cold chisel. A couple of good hits with a chisel, in a verticle direction, on one of the flats either spreads or splits the nut enough that 98% of the time it"ll come off easy.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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