I will address your question. As the previous poster said, how cold? IF it is -30F the fuel will likely have gelled(unless appropriate fuel has ben used), in which case the waxes will very quickly block the filter. It may be able to start once but not to run. 30 dgrees F (about -1 degrees international scale of temperature[Celsius])or 272 Kelvin {universal[?] scientific scale of temperature}) is cold for the UK but not very cold in some parts of the globe. Normal diesel fuel (34s Redwood) would be perfectly alright at this temp but you would not be using gas oil fraction at -30F. The fuel will need to be warmed quite a lot above the gelling/waxing temperature, if it has suffered that fate, as the waxes do not re-dissolve so easily. Adding more volatile fuels in minimum proportions to re-absorb the waxes followed by dilution with normal fuel would suffice or simply change the fuel and warm off-tractor for later use would be OK. Really depends on your situation. Not many diesels can produce enough heat of compression at very low temperatures to be able to start without some extra assistance - glow plugs, cold start heaters, volatile solvent sprays, heating of combustion chamber.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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