Posted by Janicholson on January 11, 2008 at 12:16:27 from (199.17.6.122):
In Reply to: ??????? posted by Sawyer on January 11, 2008 at 10:25:56:
Some of the below is a bit strange to me, ethylene Glycol and sugar aren,t reasonable. Take off the valve cover. Remove the rocker arm system to allow bo the valves in both cylinders to close. (If they wont close, spray the stem with PB Blaster and tap it with a plastic faced hammer to get it unstuck. With the valved shut, filling the cylinders is easier. I would pull the sparkplugs and blow out any water or trash with air. (if a bunch of rusty flakes come out, I would just pull the enging down, it will not be an easy fix.) then with clean cylinders, I would put the plugs back in, and use Auto trans fluid to fill the intake system, and exhaust system manifolds. Then open one of the valves on each cylinder letting fluid into the cylinder. This should be able to be done with a flatbar, and a bit of chain. Keep filling the manifold until the level is above the cylinder. Let it set for two weeks. Pull the plugs, and use the starter to bump the engine. repeated taps on the starter is best, holding it does nothing but heat the starter motor. Good luck, JimN
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Today's Featured Article - Product Review: Lead Substitutes - by Mike Schordine. Lead was oriinally added to gasoline as an upper cylinder lubricant. It lubes the valves and seats. If you rebuild the motor, you could use hardened seats and valves, and unleaded fuel. But if your old tractor runs good, a simple lead substitute added to the gas is a perfectly reasonable solution. And, if you are like me, your tractor is under cover, but it sits outside. So with every temperature change, the humidity in the air collects in the fuel tank, in the form of water.
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