Posted by Janicholson on January 11, 2008 at 12:16:27 from (199.17.6.122):
In Reply to: ??????? posted by Sawyer on January 11, 2008 at 10:25:56:
Some of the below is a bit strange to me, ethylene Glycol and sugar aren,t reasonable. Take off the valve cover. Remove the rocker arm system to allow bo the valves in both cylinders to close. (If they wont close, spray the stem with PB Blaster and tap it with a plastic faced hammer to get it unstuck. With the valved shut, filling the cylinders is easier. I would pull the sparkplugs and blow out any water or trash with air. (if a bunch of rusty flakes come out, I would just pull the enging down, it will not be an easy fix.) then with clean cylinders, I would put the plugs back in, and use Auto trans fluid to fill the intake system, and exhaust system manifolds. Then open one of the valves on each cylinder letting fluid into the cylinder. This should be able to be done with a flatbar, and a bit of chain. Keep filling the manifold until the level is above the cylinder. Let it set for two weeks. Pull the plugs, and use the starter to bump the engine. repeated taps on the starter is best, holding it does nothing but heat the starter motor. Good luck, JimN
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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