That ought to be a good idea, I'd imagine after getting a fire going I can check the temperature of the pipe, probably most concerned with the pipe from the stove to the wall, I reinstalled the old damper close to the stove, figuring if the pipe ever caught at least I can shut most of the oxygen down, damper on the stove door and the one on the pipe.
Obviously that would be a worst case scenario, I'll have to see how hot it gets wide open and choke it back a little if necessary. Right after the elbow above the stove to the horizontal to the wall, the pipe transitions from 6" to 7", so it's probably going to cool, then will cool further along the 4' it travels through the wall to the base of the chimney, so I'll have to monitor that area, when I initially cleaned the chimney and cleared the blockage from 25 + years on non use, those were the only areas with soot, mostly grinds, a few flakes. I made it easy to disassemble the pipe, no problem keeping an eye on things in there. Ive got a digital temperature reader for now, but see the magnetic wood stove thermometer listed and ones that look like you need to drill a hole in the stack to use.
I'll have to ask if his kids are on any of the teams, I think 1 or both played hoop, just approaching HS age now, nice area over there, I'm about 40 miles east.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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