Your welds are very acceptable. Having a good machine makes all the difference. 7018 are famous for getting a little ball of slag on the end of the rod. Hobart had one of the first 7018 designed especially for AC machines. One of the best characteristics of the rods was that they didn't get the slag build up on the end and could be restruck easily. On DC though, I got porosity. In shops welders will tap the rods on the concrete floor or with the chipping hammer to knock the slag off the end. Make sure the chipping hammer isn't grounded. A lot of times with a good machine, you can just tap the rod a little harder on the work piece to knock the slag off and start welding. You have to be careful though so you don't get stray arc strikes. They cause weak spots in the steel. It's best to strike the arc ahead of where you want to start the weld and then weld over where you struck the arc. 7018 aren't usually used for tacking unless it's large pieces or the tacks are under a lot of stress. 6010, 6011(AC) are often used for tacking because they make a flatter tack and are easy to restrike. Tacks should normally be welded over. Always chip the slag off a weld to determine the quality of the weld. The slag can look horrible, while the weld can be sound. 7018 should be run vertical up. The idea is weave side to side creating a small shelf for the puddle to build up on as you progress upwards. It takes some practice. 7018 isn't the best choice for thin material as it's easier to burn through with. Dave
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