I'll agree with rrlund that Oliver, although wasn't perfect, for a while was one of the nicer tractors to have. They always ran so smooth, had decent power and economy.... and then it seemed like they were content and just stopped trying. Shoot I put sleeves and pistons in a 1961 880 Oliver diesel - used it a bit and sold it but park that next to a 3010/4010 and it's no competition. It had the horrid power traction hitch 3pt combination, had "dual remotes' which one operated the 3pt, no power steering with 14 turns lock to lock, it had a pan seat, was hard to get on and off, and with that craptacular IDI design on the engine started hard. Jump ahead 8 years to the 1850 I restored, sure they figured out how to get you on and off the tractor, but still put the hydraulic pump between your legs on the platform, never synchronized the tranny and couldn't find a set of long axles for the thing to save their butts, couldn't figure out a good way to attach the hydraulic outlets to the back of the tractor, no sliding 3pt arms, and toggle hydraulics - no speed control by just moving the lever a little bit. When it comes to the 4 digit series I would even much rather have a farmall than another Oliver. Even though they still didn't have the tranny figured out, the shift linkage usually sucks and they had a hydraulic system that was less than desirable. That and the kick back brakes, I used to like messing with those on "Coach's" 706 we used to bale hay. Just sitting there kick the brakes real hard and it would kick back. Ah yes, memories.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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