On the three brush generators that used a cutout relay versus a Voltge Regulator, the light switch was dual purpose cuz in addition to lights it also allowed for Low or High Charge settings andddddddddd it has a certain ohms value resistor to limit field current when in LOW charge position (it wires to the gennys FLD post). One possible problem is the resistor may be of a different value depending on if its a 6 or 12 volt generator soooooooooo Im not even sure they made an M switch for 12 volts but if so insure the switches resistor is the right value. If not she can still work n charge but the Low charge rate may not be what its supposed to be i.e. if the resistor is wrong value the gennys Fields may draw too little or too much current. Of course, the lights dont matter either switch should still work fine far as lights are concerned, its just that Low/High charge resistor value may be different (if they even make one for 12 volts at all???)....... In high charge the gennys field is dead ground NO resistor used so it wouldnt make any difference in that case and a lot of time people used the High charge switch setting anyway so theres no problem if a 6 or 12 volt in that scenario. If shes converetd to a full fledged Voltage Regulator then the light switch no longer wires to gennys FLD post and the light switch will still work regardless if 6 or 12......
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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