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Re: Ford 7710 any good?


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Posted by RodInNS on May 09, 2008 at 19:04:14 from (24.224.246.156):

In Reply to: Re: Ford 7710 any good? posted by fixer0070 on May 09, 2008 at 17:05:14:

To me, clutch pedal wear, brake pedal wear and drawbar hole wear mean little to nothing on those tractors. I can show you a tractor with 2000 hours and the clutch pedal is worn thin, and I can show you a tractor with 7500 hours and no wear on the brake pedals, and any other combination thereof.

I'd look at the tierod ends for slop. I'd pull the drain plugs from the hubs. I'd check hydraulic function. When the oil is warm the valves should kick out their detents at idle. If they don't and the levers aren't stiff, suspect the pump. See if the clutch will slip when you start away quickly in sixth or seventh gear (H2 or H3). Take note of how quickly the engine starts cold and how long it makes white smoke. Those are the things to check on 7710's.
Also make sure that the drawbar housing is tight. Those have been known to get torn off from running heavy....
Also, a tractor that's done a lot of 3-point work will have worn balls on the lift arms and the extendable links are prone to wear and jump out at inconvienient times.

The 7710 is a pretty tough tractor overall. I've done one clutch in mine, a couple pumps, brakes, and FWD clutch along with the rear wheel bearings and a few other ancilliary things like alternators and starters. A buddy of mine has done the dual power in one of his, along with the several main clutches in two and engines in both. For what it's worth, he backed the smoke screw out about as far is it would go on both and then ran both like they were 120 horse tractors, and ran them hard at that. All things considered, he hasn't fixed much on them considering what they were through. I'd also say his engine problems were more to do with irregular oil changes than anythign else...

My clutch and brake problems along with most of the hydraulic problems stemmed from the use of incorrect oil many years ago. Otherwise the tractor has be used hard and given little trouble.

The long and the short of it is that you don't have much idea of what you're getting in a used tractor until you work it for a few days. Keep that in mind when negociating the price.

BTW, I can also show you how to disable the hour meter on that tractor without affecting the tach.... so the hour meter may not mean a thing.
My buddy's newer 7710 shows 910 hours, looks the part in every way and has more like 9000 hours....
Just somethign to think about.

Rod


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