Pick one you like and can use.....first tractor should be one that has had tender loving care over the years.......how do you tell wish I knew......
I look for for a tractor (take my 1951 Farmall M)for example.....I dont like junk....I would rather pay more ,than tare down an fix one thing after a nother.....and wind up with as much oe more money in it than a better one to start with...
My '51 M was not repainted since the factory....yet it still had most of its orignal paint....a small dent , even a scratch....All of the grill parts and sheet metal fit good.....finders on the tractor not laying in the shead.All lights and must work....they can cost 50 to 90 $ ea.PTO and good Shield.....Good battery box and lid...Belt pully would be nice.....all drawbar parts , no welds or bent = tractor abuce.....drawbar holes OK.....no serous oil leaks......no cracks or welds.....Tires and tubes rears must look near new .....New about $1,000...mine look nearly new....all around... rear rims had been replaced 5 yr. back.....I gave $2500 for it delivered to my shop, 2004....
By the yime I go over it Ill paint it, change and flush all the fluids, Ill have $3,000 in it......I'll have a great tractor.......I also have a Farmall H -- John Deere LA -- Alis G -- Red cub cadet and a 1620 Power King I bought new.......
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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