I previously had an outdoor wood-fired boiler and now use a hot-air, wood furnace with a room built around it. I described it above in another post. Don't tell me it's a waste - this thing works better than anyting else I've had - or seen in my area of New York - and there are a lot of outdoor boilers around here. My systems uses a lot less wood than the outdoor boilers.
I've been heating my home with wood for 40 years and tried many different things.
In regard to paying someone for "advice" on an non-mainsteam, alternative-type heating system? Good luck. Most people in the business are ignorant on the subject. Do your own research.
One note. A wood fire needs to be hot to be efficient. So, the most efficient wood-heating system is one that runs either full-bore, or not at all. But, that is usually not feasable with a home-heating system - so some things are a trade-off. If you had a lot of room to build, and money to spend, you could built a hot-water system with a huge storage potential. Then, run the furnace once, every few days - full bore - get the water hot - and then shut down. But - there's is a down side to it, also.
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Today's Featured Article - Oliver 550 Purchaser Checklist - by Greg Sheppard. Pound for pound the 550 is better than anything I've seen. It has great power for its size and can really hunker down and lug. Classified as a 3-bottom plow depending on soil conditions. I personally don't think it can be beat for a utility tractor in the 40 HP range. They are extremely thrifty on fuel, at least my DSL is. Most drive train parts are fairly easy to get. Sheet metal is probably the hardest thing to
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