Rear axles on these are designed to work properly with the wheel dish out. Some 50 HP and higher tractors have front axles that are designed with the strength and steering geometry to handle reversed wheels (dish out) without damage but these small ones are definitely not. That causes a huge overload on the outer bearings and the leverage ends up causing seal leakage, excessive wear and breakage at the outer 4WD parts. The change in steering geometry requires much more steering effort, more rapid wear and breakage of steering parts. I see the loader is not sized properly to the tractor with respect to the distance between the loader and the front tires when the bucket is down. Especially on a tractor this small and with such a short wheelbase, that distance should be as short as is possible without hitting the tires. Yes, you need the maximum safe ballast in the rear; fluid, wheel weights and rear weight. If you don't already have one, get a manual for that tractor (or the comparable Ford/NH) and follow the guidelines for the maximum safe ballast. So glad you didn't get hurt and hope the tips you're getting here help.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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